The other day I showed you how to make reusable cloth gift bags. After I finished the gift bag and had the photos taken I put everything away and headed up to bed. But I wasn’t feeling my usual sense of accomplishment.

Then the little voice in my head spoke up…

“I don’t like them.”

I don’t like it when the little voice in my head speaks up. It usually means more work for me.

“Why not?” I answered. “They’re cute bags. And they’re quick and easy to make.”

“The ribbon is too hard to wrap around and tie. The tops are clunky and ugly. I don’t like them.”

“But I’ve got a bunch of them done already.” I whined. “The tutorial photos are taken; I just need to write up the directions.”

“I don’t like them.”

“I don’t care! I don’t have time to make them over again. They’re good enough. Leave me alone!”

“They are not good enough. You can do better.”

“Stop it! There’s nothing wrong with them! They’re fine!”

“I. Don’t. Like. Them.”

“Arrrrrgh!!!”

I should know better than to argue with the voice in my head; I always lose. The next night I found myself changing the reusable bags I’d already made to make them better.

Make Reusable Gift Bags with a Casing

The reusable gift bags in my previous tutorial closed by wrapping a ribbon around the top. The voice in my head wasn’t thrilled with that option, so I took the ribbon off and made a casing for the ribbon to go through. When you pull the ribbon to close the bag the fabric will gather evenly and make a pretty ruffle on top.

Make Reusable Gift Bags from the Beginning

If you haven’t made any bags yet, follow the other tutorial except after you stitch the hem in Step 6 come back here to Step 2 and follow the rest of the steps to finish your gift bag.

Alter Previously Made Reusable Gift Bags

If you’ve already made gift bags from the other tutorial you can easily alter them by following the directions below.

Step 1: Remove Ribbon
Find where the ribbon is stitched to the bag in the final step of the previous tutorial.

Carefully rip out the stitching so you can remove the ribbon.

Step 2: Make Casing
Lay the ribbon next to the stitching on the side near the top of the bag to figure out how wide to make the casing. You can measure with a measuring tape too, but this method is quicker for me.

Set the ribbon aside and sew a second line of stitching parallel to the first line, to form a casing.

Carefully separate the two layers of fabric and make a small slit in the outside layer of fabric. Be careful not to go through both layers of fabric!

I’d considered making a buttonhole for the ribbon but decided not to because I hate making buttonholes and because I doubt that the reusable gift bags are going to be used enough that they’ll need a buttonhole. If you’re worried about the fabric raveling you can brush a little clear nail polish on the edges of the slit, but be careful they don’t get stuck together.

This is the opening you’re going to insert the ribbon into.

Step 3: Insert Ribbon
Fold the end of your ribbon over and attach a safety pin to it.

Insert the ribbon into the slit in your casing and work it all the way around the bag. Be careful not to pull the ribbon all the way through the bag as it moves the casing!

Work the pin and ribbon out of the slit – again being careful the other end of the ribbon doesn’t slip into the casing – and remove the pin.

Find the middle of the bag back and stitch through the ribbon and casing to attach the ribbon to the bag so it doesn’t accidentally get pulled out.

Trim both ends of the ribbon at an angle so they don’t fray and tie into a cute bow.

See, isn’t this top gathered more nicely than the other?

Happy Sewing!

If you’re looking for ways to “green up” your holidays, cloth gift bags are a great idea! They may not be as much fun to rip open as wrapping paper, but they don’t make as big a mess and can be used again, and again, and again. Besides, it’s so quick and easy to make cloth gift bags that in no time you’ll have gift bags stashed away for every occasion!

Supplies for Making Cloth Gift Bags

One of the advantages of making cloth gift bags is that you don’t need many supplies:

• Sewing machine or serger
• Pins, scissors, etc
• A safety pin
• Iron
• Fabric
• Thread
• Ribbon

How to Make Cloth Gift Bags – Step by Step

I’m not going to give you specific dimensions for the cloth gift bags because I’d rather have you “go green” and use up leftover fabric. Gifts come in all shapes and sizes so just make whatever size bag you can from the fabric you have. If you really need a bag to fit a specific item, measure the item then add a couple of inches to the width for ease and seams, and 4-6″ to the height for the hem.

Ready?

Ok – let’s get sewing!

Step 1: Iron
If your fabric is fresh from the fabric store it’s probably ready to go, but if it was stuffed in a bag in a corner of your bedroom like mine was you’ll probably want to iron it before doing anything else.

I didn’t bother washing my fabric ahead of time because I figure the gift bags won’t be washed often, and if they do end up shrinking in the wash it’s really not a big deal.

Step 2: Cut
Cut your fabric into the desired dimensions. I cut across the entire length of the fabric and planned to fold it in half to make a medium-ish sized gift bag.

When I use leftover fabric I cut the pieces into the largest square or rectangle I can. Make sure you cut two pieces the same size if the rectangle isn’t big enough to fold in half!

Make sure you have straight edges and square corners so you don’t end up with a wonky gift bag.

Step 3: Press Top Hem
This is what’s called a selvage. It’s the edge on both sides of a length of fabric and doesn’t ravel.

If your fabric has a graphic design like mine that looks nice from any direction, turn your fabric sideways and use the selvage as the top hem to save a little time. Don’t worry if you’ve got Santa or reindeer or something that’ll look weird turned sideways; using the selvage edge is a nice bonus but not necessary.

Turn the top and bottom edges over several inches and press. This will be the top hem and the “ruffle” at the top of the bag. I like a decent sized ruffle so I turn my fabric over about 4″ for larger cloth gift bags, and at least 2″ for smaller ones.

If you’re not using the selvage you’ll need to finish the raw edge of the fabric so it doesn’t ravel. You can serge it, zig-zag it, or simply turn 1/4″ under – like I’ve shown here – and press.

Step 4: Side Seams
Unfold the edge you just pressed and pin the bag, right sides together, matching the top edges, pressed fold, and sides. Serge or sew.

Yes, you can switch those two steps and serge the bag together before pressing the seam, but I find it easier to press a flat piece of fabric instead of a tube – especially if you’re making smaller gift bags.

Since my fabric is one large rectangle I simply folded it right-sides-together, so the fold was at the bottom, and serged the side seams. If you’ve got two separate pieces of fabric you’ll obviously have to serge or sew from the top down one side, across the bottom, then up the other side.

If you used a sewing machine, either trim the seam with a pinking shears the scissors that cuts VVVVV or with a zig-zag stitch, so they don’t ravel.

 
Step 6: Stitch Top Hem
Fold the ironed hem back down and stitch close to the edge. I like to start at a side seam so you can’t see the backstitching as easily.

Optional Square Bottom for Cloth Gift Bags

If you’re making a larger gift bag, like I am, you may want to square the bottom of the bag to add depth so larger items fit better. If you’re making a small gift bag you can skip ahead to the final step.

Find one of the bottom corners of the bag. Open the corner and fold it, right sides together, so the side and bottom seams or bottom fold touch.

Figure out how wide you want the bottom and draw a line perpendicular to the seam. Keep in mind that the bag will be shorter by the amount you take off the corner.

I ended up drawing my line 2″ in from the corner, which gave me a width of about 4″.

Stitch or serge along the line. Finish the seam with a zig-zag stitch or pinking shears if you’re using a sewing machine.

Turn right-side-out.

Viola – a square corner!

Finishing the Cloth Gift Bags

Step 7: Attach Ribbon
Cut your ribbon twice the width of your bag plus about 6″. Find the center of your ribbon and the center of the front or back of your bag, and stitch the ribbon to the bag.

Remember to clip those threads!

Cut the ends of the ribbon on an angle so they don’t fray. You could also use clear nail polish to seal the ends, but cutting on an angle is quicker and easier.

Step 8: Enjoy
That’s it – you’re done!

Gather the top of the bag, wrap the ribbon around, and tie in a pretty bow.

 
You can embellish the ribbon with beads or jingle bells if you like. Unless your beads and jingle bells are all set aside for art projects, like mine…

That was easy, wasn’t it?

I grew up with a sewing machine so starting and ending a seam with backstitching is second nature to me. When I got my first serger I was dumbfounded to learn that sergers don’t go backwards.

If you can’t go backward how do you keep a serged seam from unravelling?

At first I tied knots in the threads at the end of my serged seams, but that took FOREVER! Not to mention that sometimes the threads weren’t long enough to tie, sometimes I accidentally unravelled some of the seam, and sometimes the knots came loose.

There’s got to be a better way of starting and ending a serged seam!

Sew and Sew to the rescue! The nice ladies of Sew and Sew where I got my sewing machine and serger showed me the secrets of starting and ending serged seams that won’t unravel.

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The other day I posted a photo of a soccer appliqued pillowcase one of my readers had made using my How to Applique tutorial. At the end of the post I invited everyone else to submit applique photos for me to show off, and Beth took me up on the offer.

This is Beth’s first applique ever – isn’t it fantastic?! I love the entire set, especially how she used both the stripes and dots in the pants it doesn’t hurt that I love brown and blue together; I’ll bet it was just adorable on her little guy.

Beth made these outfits for a friend’s five children. I like how she personalized each shirt – I’m assuming each reflects the child’s personality somehow.

I think it’s a great idea and wish I’d thought of it when our kids were younger, but I doubt I could get College Boy to wear an appliqued shirt at age 23 – especially one that matches with his siblings. Oh well, there’s always the grandchildren!

The dress Beth made for her niece is so “Wisconsin” that I had to ask Beth if she lived in my home state too. She doesn’t, but her father-in-law restores old John Deere tractors – hence the John Deere fabric and tractor applique.

Thanks so much for sharing your appliques, Beth! You’re not only a creative applique-er, but an outstanding seamstress too.

Anyone else care to share their applique photos, now that Beth has broken the ice? We’d love to see them so don’t be shy!

A while ago I posted a tutorial showing how to appliqué. My goal was to help others learn how to appliqué, but I received something from the post too; I’ve had the privilege of getting to know many of you through your questions and comments.

One of my readers, Kim, sent me this photo of her very first attempt at appliqueé, and I wanted to share it with all of you because I am so proud of what a great job she did!

I love how the green “pops” against the black and white, and how she used soccer fabric in the “A” and “R” of her son’s name.

What do you like about Kim’s first appliqué? Post a comment below and tell her!

And if you send me a photo of your first – or your favorite – appliqué I’ll post it so we all can tell you what a great job you did!

Happy sewing,

Aren’t they pretty?!

These fitted diapers are part of a custom order for Alexa. I remember making custom diapers for her daughter several years ago, and was so excited when she asked me to make some for her son.

It was so much fun helping her pick out fabrics we thought her son would like – can you tell he’s into animals?

I can’t wait to see photos of him in the diapers! Hint-hint Alexa!

Did you use cloth diapers? What were your favorites?

I’m not real fond of the snap-setting step in diaper making, but it’s a necessary evil. The other night I was applying some snapstitle=” after threatening myself with no chocolate until they were done and everything was going along smoothly when suddenly I heard a faint CRACK.

My stomach dropped and I bit back a few choice four-letter words. I knew what that CRACK meant; that snap had to come out.

Oh %&!#.

Sometimes snaps crack because there’s too much pressure on the snap press handle, but sometimes it’s just a faulty snap. Either way you can’t just leave it there.

I’ve heard that you can remove a snap by using an ice pick and hammer to push the post back, or drilling the center out with a small drill bit, but I’m not big into power tools and don’t have an ice pick hanging around. I like to use my Teacher’s trusty wire cutters.

It’s a slow process but usually does the job with minimal damage to the fabric.

I usually start on the cap side to protect the front of the fabric as much as possible. Place the wire cutters with the cutting edge against the fabric; try not get any fabric caught in the cutters.

That scrap fabric between the snap cap and the PUL was intended to reinforce the snap but will also help protect the PUL as I’m working on this snap.

With the wire cutters, try to crack the cap, or at least do some damage to it. By the way – make sure your fingers are out of the way before you try to crack the cap. Again, the voice of experience talking…

Turn the fabric over and have a go at the socket side. Sometimes it’s easier to get under the socket and snip through the post.

Sometimes not so much.

What you do NOT want to do is cut off all of the socket except for the back layer which is against the fabric. In the photo you can see how the bottom part is starting do to just that – and it’s not a good thing.

Back to the cap… Since pieces are obviously too tightly set for me to get to the post I have to try another option.

Grabbing one edge of the cap in the wire cutters and making sure not to catch any fabric I started chipping away at the cap.

Piece…

by piece…

we’re getting there…

As you’re chipping away at the cap don’t get too close to the post. If you cut off the whole cap except a bit attached to the post you’ll have no way to get it out without leaving huge hole in your fabric. This is the voice of experience talking.

What you’re trying to do is get rid of enough cap and/or socket so you can reach the post with the wire cutters.

Back to the socket side… push up on the cap to pop the socket up and away from the fabric.

Carefully place the wire cutter blades underneath the socket, without catching the fabric.

I’m lucky to have the tag there; it’s protecting the fabric and if it gets wrecked it’s easier to replace than the whole diaper cut. If I didn’t have the tag I’d do this from the cap side, but I know the tag will protect the PUL better than the scrap fabric – plus the socket is smaller so it’ll be easier to get to the post.

Slowly, bear down to cut through the post, and…

Voilà, the snap is out!

The hole left by the snap isn’t too big so I’ll just grab a new tag and piece of scrap paper, then replace the snap.

That wasn’t so hard now, was it? Hopefully the snaps you need to remove will be few and far between!

Applying a KAM snap is so easy my kids can do it! In fact, when I was making diapers for Peanut I had Angel Face apply the snaps for me.

I’m assuming you already own a press and dies. Size 20 dies seem to be the standard for cloth diapers and cloth pads. I’ve used size 20 for everything: purse closures, baby clothes, doll clothes (they’re a bit big for the doll but easy for little fingers to use) home decor items, etc.

Fit the shank of the upper die into the upper hole and use the allen wrench to tighten it. Drop the flat die in the lower hole, and you’re ready to go!

I labeled my upper dies “Female – Socket” and “Male – Stud” so I could figure out which was which quickly.

Push a female/socket piece onto the upper die; it should snap on and stay there nicely.I’ve had some fall off which is a real pain because then you have to hold it up and try to apply it without pinching your finger. Sometimes I’m successful, sometimes I’m not.

Lay the cap point-side-up on the lower die. Do be careful because the point IS sharp.

When I’m applying snaps to one layer of fabric, like PUL for a diaper, I lay a piece of scrap fabric on the cap to reinforce the snap. I haven’t found this to be necessary when snapping two layers of fabric, although if both layers are very stretchy I might use a scrap of non-stretchy fabric to as reinforcement.

Make sure the placement mark is right on the point of the cap, and hold the fabric firmly so it doesn’t shift on you. If you’re right-handed you’ll probably want to hold the fabric with your left hand. Be sure your fingers are out of the way!

With your right hand, slowly push down on the handle until the socket comes into contact with the fabric.

Some WAHMs make small holes in the fabric so the cap will go through, but I generally don’t find that necessary; the only time I’ve had a problem with caps not going through is when I add the size tag. If I don’t make a small hole in both layers of the size tag the cap won’t make it through the reinforcement scrap, the PUL and the size tag.

Holding the handle down so the fabric doesn’t slide, use both hands to press the handle down as far as you can. I usually get on my tiptoes and lean over a little so my shoulders are right over my hands, then use my whole body to press the handle down.

Let up on the handle, then press it down a secong time for good measure.

If all goes right the cap point will pass through the hole in the socket, hit the upper die and get smushed; spreading out to hold the socket securely. If you don’t press the handle down with sufficient force the cap point won’t get smushed enough and your snap will come apart. But don’t go all He-Man on it either or She-Ra, as the case may be because if you use too much force you could crack the socket.

That’s a major pain in the tookus, and the subject of a future post.

Ta-da! One lovely socket snap applied… just fifteen more to go!

By the way, it’s just as easy to apply the male/stud half; just use the male/stud die and male/stud piece.

Happy snapping!

A couple of years ago I appliquéd a pair of overalls for a friend’s little girl, took photos of them, shipped them off, then forgot to post the photos. Yeah, I’m an airhead that way sometimes – I blame it on “Mommy Brain.”

When I came across the photos the other day I decided to post them. After all, “Better Late than Never” has been my M.O. since Little Guy was born.

At the time I wasn’t making anything except diapers so I really enjoyed the opportunity to make something else. Besides, it had been years and years and years since Princess and Angel Face were young enough to want me to sew for them, so it was nice to sew for a little girl again.

It was kind of a PITB to stitch through all the layers of denim at the seams and pockets but the end result was definitely worth it.

I had fun digging through my craft supplies for pearls, ribbons and flowers to add a little something “extra” to the design. I was able to do the octopus’ face with the machine, but I knew that the mermaid would look like she’d run into an ax murderer if I tried to do her face on the machine.

My mom offered to embroider the face by hand, and since she likes hand embroidery more than I do I “let” her do it for me. Thanks mom!!

Someday when I’ve got time to regularly haunt my local consignment shops I’d like to upcycle clothing with appliqué, but right now I’ve got more than enough to keep me busy!

Thanks for reading; your comments are eagerly anticipated and hugely appreciated!

The other day Teacher was chasing a wasp with a rolled up magazine and accidentally knocked down the kitchen valences. As he replaced them after smashing the little menace I got a good look at them and was instantly grossed out; they were covered with a layer of dust and cobwebs. Ewwwwww!

Of course I washed them right away, and when they were all fresh and clean I took another look at them. They weren’t bad curtains, as curtains go. I’d made them from a cream and dark green striped Lands’ End sheet when we were living in St. Louis. In fact, they were probably some of the nicest curtains I’d ever made because they were even lined – not just thrown together from the cheapest not-too-ugly fabric I could find.

As I looked at them I realized that I was tired of looking at them. When I’d made the valences I’d been pregnant with Angel Face. She just turned fifteen this year. These valences had been in our various apartments and rental-house kitchens for the past fifteen years.

It was definitely time for something new.

Teacher and I took a trip to Jo-Ann Fabrics to find fabric. I had a vague notion of what I wanted: something with green to go with our counter tops, maybe something whimsical, but nothing striped, plaid, or too old-lady-flowery. We walked up and down the rows of printed cotton, waiting for something to jump out and bite us. Nothing. We kept walking; not fleece, not corduroy, not… wait… where’s Teacher?

He’d stopped in front of the brocades and satins. Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous fabrics!

At first I was unsure because in my head I’d been picturing a printed cotton, but the brocades were so gorgeous and on sale that I couldn’t resist. After a little hemming and hawing on my part – we know I’m not great with decisions – we went with Teacher’s first choice.

The green is more “mossy” than our counter tops, but we figured once it was on the wall the difference wouldn’t be noticable. The cream and rose coordinate perfectly with the walls and curtains in the rest of the house. It’s great being married to a man with an artists’ eye – and great taste!

The first chance I got I started working on the new curtains. I thought it would be easy-peasy, but I didn’t anticipate how challenging the fabric would be. It was slippery and shrunk where I pressed it, both of which made all the hems and seams more difficult than they should have been.

After much perseverance and more than a few four-letter words the valences were done! A light pressing and gathering on the rod helps hide the wonky parts, and the green looks darker against the window and light wall so it coordinates nicely with the counter tops.

All in all I couldn’t be happier. Thanks Mr. Wasp, for invading our home and starting the chain reaction that resulted in our gorgeous new valences! I’m almost sorry you’re not around to see them.